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When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.