Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
